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• Exterior Foundation Insulation Installation

Hi Margaret,Having a crawl space under your house can make your home colder in the winter than a house built on a concrete slab. Also, mold and mildew can be a problem in a crawl space, so you need to be sure to guard against that as well.To make the floors in your home warmer, and prevent mold and mildew from forming in the crawl space, requires more than just insulation.

Here’s how to go about reducing moisture and insulating a crawl space under your home:. Cover Ground: Start by removing any items stored under your house, as well as any construction debris, such as scraps of wood or broken bricks.

Next, even out the dirt in the crawl space, and correct any problems you might have with water standing under your house by filling in any holes or depressions. Finally, cover the entire area under the house with a layer of 6-mil plastic sheeting. Overlap the sheets a foot or so, cut the plastic around piers, and run the plastic all the way to the foundation walls.

As an added measure, you can tape the seams in the sheets together to keep the plastic in place. Insulate Under Floor: Fiberglass insulation batts or rolls are the most economical and easiest DIY choice for insulating between the floor joist in a crawl space. Department of Energy recommends R-11 (3½”) insulation under floors in warm climates and an R-25 (6” to 8”) in cold climates. Install the insulation with the paper vapor barrier facing up toward the heated living space, and make sure the insulation fits tightly between the joists. Hold the insulation in place from below using insulation support wires, or by stapling chicken wire to the bottom of the joists.

Enclose Foundation: If your foundation isn’t enclosed, fill the space between the exterior piers with bricks, concrete blocks, or lattice panels. To install brick or block walls, pour a concrete footing between each of the piers around the outside of the house, then lay bricks or blocks on the footing. Install foundation vents in the walls, so there is one-square-foot of vent space for every 150 square feet of crawl space.

Another option is to make 2×4 frames from pressure treated wood to fit between the piers; then cover the outside with lattice, and staple landscape fabric on the inside to reduce (but not stop) air infiltration under the house.Good luck with your project,Further Information. (video). (article). (video). (article).

I am insulating crawl space in Louisiana of a 1880’s house. House is 7 ft off of the ground. We are using batts. In the past I have used visquin and stabled it in between the joist to help hold the insulation in place.

The contractor told me not to due this because it will cause moisture build up. I have done this in the past with no problem. I have had problems with chicken wireit rust and is hard to work with if you need to get in to do work. The contractor wans to use a nylon cloth that looks like the material used under the bottom of chairs.Suggestions. I had professional house movers come out and inspect my 1928 house crawl space and this is what they told me: ( they are excellent and I have known them for a long time) If your home sets low to the ground on original foundation, it is best NOT to put insulation under the house!!The insulation will hold in the moisture and rot out your subfloor etc.They said many home owners make this mistake and it ruins their foundations in older homes.Recommendations for older homes:1. Remove any insulation that you have placed under the house2. Seal underneath with plastic3.

Install one or two humidifiers as needed4. Must have gutters on home that work well to keep any additional water from getting under houseYour home should last for many years without any additional destruction to the sub floor or joist. Hi Jim,I’m not sure what you mean by ceiling insulation. If you’re referring to putting plastic sheeting over the bottom of the floor joists in the crawlspace, you shouldn’t as it will act as a vapor barrier and trap moisture from the house in the floor joists. If you want to put something on the bottom of the joists to hold the insulation in place, use chicken wire, landscape fabric, or housewrap so any water vapor from inside the house can escape. If you’re referring to insulation in an attic, you shouldn’t put plastic sheeting over the top of it either for the same reason. I own a 28×70 home.

I had batt insulation between the floor joist under my house twice. Had to have th first insulation torn out and replaced because of mice nesting and raising young in it.For the second time now, I am. Having it torn out because of mice nesting in it, the stinch smells like a sewer. I have set traps and other methods, almost no success. I considered having spray foam insulation sprayed between floor joist this time around. I talked with 2 guys who do this type of insulation.

But I did some research of my own and found that if the chemicals aren’t properly there can be off gasing leaving harmful odor throughout the home causing homeowners to vacate their home. Some say they don’t know if it will ever be possible to return home again because of the off gasing from the spray foam insulation. It did not cure properly.

My home sets lower to the ground under the back of the house and much higher in front. We live upon a hill side, the ground underneath the house slants downward as you move toward the front of the house underneath. I am so desperate at this point I have been in tears for days trying to figure out the best options to solve all these problems.

I cannot not afford to rebuild. Please help if you can.

I need all the advice I can get at this point. I am literally in despair. What do I do, is there anyone who can help my situation and circumstances or is this hopeless?Please I need help. I have a new home in Durham, NC. This winter I was awoken many times by a loud shreak.

My hardwood floors on my first floor were heaving and separating. I could actually roll a 50 cent piece down one of the cracks between the red oak slats. The floor was cold to walk on all winter, had to wear thermal socks. The builder says that NC code is an R-value 19, which it is, but this crawl space has a ceiling height of 6 feet.

I can walk under my entire house. Does R-19 really suffice, especially giving the hardwood separation and heaving?

This is what I did to my crawl space here in Northern Canada where winter can get -30 that’s cold. First I took out all the Batt insulation because it a mice bed and it can collect moisture and start to stink like old sawdust then it will start to rot your floor joist out. Secondly I installed one and a half inch thick rigid foam on the concrete blocks inside the basement with the use of pl300 glue for foam and tape the joints. I used cheaper durafoam ( green and silver colour.) then I place a blue tarp over the gravel floor and tape the seams to the wall rigid foam and to the overlap centers on the tarps. I also taped the post pier that holds up the center beam of the home. Then I cut 15“long x 8“ wide pieces of foam for the joist sill opening between the joist and use a few cans of spray foam were I notice gaps around the pieces.

Then I put 3 heat ducks in the basement. Now my floor is warm and my water pipes will not freezzze.

In the summer months I have to small basement opening I place screen windows and remove plywood which I putin in the winter.

Poorly or incorrectly insulated foundation slabs can present several problems for homes, including energy loss, moisture control issues, and indoor air quality challenges. Energy loss through slabs is primarily a result of heat conducted outward through the perimeter of the slab and into the surrounding soil. Moisture can become an issue inside the house if the relative temperature difference between the slab and indoor air temperatures become too great and condensation or high localized relative humidity issues occur. With condensation, mold may have a chance to grow and create indoor air quality issues.

While it is common practice to install insulation, specifically rigid insulation, during the construction of the slab, it is often installed incorrectly or incompletely. However, by properly installing insulation that extends to the top of the slab in either a monolithic slab with a grade beam or a slab independent of the foundation design, thermal bridging, moisture, and air quality issues can all be addressed and minimized. Figure 1 - Properly installed rigid insulation. This image shows monolithic slab construction with properly installed rigid insulation that extends to the top of the slab and provides a complete thermal break.General StepsTo address the problems associated with thermal bridging and potential moisture issues that can occur with improperly insulated slab foundation systems, follow the steps below.

The strategies for insulating the slab edge depend upon whether the slab on grade is:. Monolithic with a grade beam.

Slabs independent of the foundation wallFor either design style it is important to review the plan for slab insulation with pest control and local building officials to ensure code compliance. Material selection is also important. Insulation levels should meet or exceed state requirements in accordance with the International Energy Conservation Code (IECC).

Finally, only use insulation approved for below-grade use. Figure 2 - Properly installed vapor barrier. The polyethlene vapor barrier shown above is properly positioned to work in conjunction with the rigid foam insulation that will be installed on the exterior of the slab after the wood forms have been removed.Monolithic with a Grade BeamWhen the slab is monolithic with a grade beam, the insulation must be installed to the exterior of the slab edge/grade beam and continue vertically to the bottom of the grade beam as shown below. Different regions may have different code requirements, so be sure to check the local codes to make sure this meets the requirements.

The insulation material must be appropriate for ground contact. XPS, rigid fiberglass, and rock wool are examples of acceptable materials. Figure 3 - Monolithic slab with a grade beam. Figure 4 - Slab independent of foundation wall. Rater Field ChecklistThermal Enclosure System.3.

Reduced Thermal Bridging.3.2 For slabs on grade in CZ 4-8, 100% of slab edge insulated to ≥ R-5 at the depth specified by the 2009 IECC and aligned with the thermal boundary of the walls 14, 15Install insulation in amounts that meet or exceed code-required levels for your climate zone. Please see this for the minimum insulation requirements for ceilings, walls, floors, and foundations in new homes, as listed in the 2009, 2012, 2015, and 2018 IECC and IRC.Section R402.2.8, Slab-on-grade floors. Slab insulation requirements: CZ 1-3: R-0; CZ 4-5: R-10, 2 ft; CZ 6-8: R-10, 4 ft. R-5 must be added to the requirement for heated slabs. The insulation depth is to the depth of the footing or 2 feet, whichever is less in Climate Zones 1-3 (for heated slabs). The insulation must extend downward from the top of the slab on the inside or outside of the foundation wall.

If located below grade, the insulation must extend the distance required by any combination of insulation installed vertically, under the slab or extending out from the building. If extending away from the building, the insulation must be protected by pavement or at least 10 inches of soil.

The IECC doesn’t require slab edge insulation in locations deemed under very heavy termite infestation by the code official., andSection R402.2.9 (R402.2.10 in 2015 and 2018 IECC), Slab-on-grade floors. Slab insulation requirements: CZ 1-3: R-0; CZ 4-5: R-10, 2 ft; CZ 6-8: R-10, 4 ft. R-5 must be added to the requirement for heated slabs. The insulation depth is to the depth of the footing or 2 feet, whichever is less in Climate Zones 1-3 (for heated slabs).

The insulation must extend downward from the top of the slab on the inside or outside of the foundation wall. If located below grade, the insulation must extend the distance required by any combination of insulation installed vertically, under the slab or extending out from the building. If extending away from the building, the insulation must be protected by pavement or at least 10 inches of soil. The IECC doesn’t require slab edge insulation in locations deemed under very heavy termite infestation by the code official.

Rater Field ChecklistThermal Enclosure System.3. Reduced Thermal Bridging.3.2 For slabs on grade in CZ 4-8, 100% of slab edge insulated to ≥ R-5 at the depth specified by the 2009 IECC and aligned with the thermal boundary of the walls 14, 15Footnote 14) Consistent with the 2009 IECC, slab edge insulation is only required for slab-on-grade floors with a floor surface less than 12 inches below grade. Slab insulation shall extend to the top of the slab to provide a complete thermal break. If the top edge of the insulation is installed between the exterior wall and the edge of the interior slab, it shall be permitted to be cut at a 45-degree angle away from the exterior wall. Alternatively, the thermal break is permitted to be created using ≥ R-3 rigid insulation on top of an existing slab (e.g., in a home undergoing a gut rehabilitation). In such cases, up to 10% of the slab surface is permitted to not be insulated (e.g., for sleepers, for sill plates). Insulation installed on top of slab shall be covered by a durable floor surface (e.g., hardwood, tile, carpet).Footnote 15) Where an insulated wall separates a garage, patio, porch, or other unconditioned space from the conditioned space of the house, slab insulation shall also be installed at this interface to provide a thermal break between the conditioned and unconditioned slab.

Exterior Foundation Insulation Installation

Where specific details cannot meet this requirement, partners shall provide the detail to EPA to request an exemption prior to the home’s certification. EPA will compile exempted details and work with industry to develop feasible details for use in future revisions to the program. An uninsulated foundation can cause heat loss, uncomfortably cold floors, and higher heating bills.

High-efficiency and ultra-efficient foundation insulation combats potential heat loss with properly installed foundation insulation to retain heat in the basement, crawlspace, or floor slab. High-efficiency insulation meets or exceeds the levels required by the 2012 International Energy Conservation Code (IECC); ultra-efficient insulation provides 50% more insulation than the 2009 IECC requires. High-efficiency and ultra-efficient floor insulation systems include slab floors that are installed with rigid foam or spray foam under the entire slab and rigid foam around the edges of the slab, or crawlspaces or basements made with insulated concrete foam (ICF) blocks, or insulated along the interior or exterior of the foundation walls with rigid foam.